How to hike the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites

If you are new to multi-day hiking, the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites in Italy is a perfect starter. The track is well marked-out, the huts are comfortable and the food delicious. Most of the huts even have a wine list! What do you need more?

Scenery, duh!

Don’t worry about that. I can assure you it will be impressive! We have hiked in stunning places all over the world – the Pyrenees, the Himalayas, New Zealand, Patagonia, … – and we were extremely impressed by the beauty of the Dolomites. I would consider the Dolomites as our European Patagonia, with rugged peaks rising abruptly from rolling green valleys. Continue reading if you need help to design your Alta Via 1 itinerary.

Check out our aftermovie. Warning before watching:

  • Spoiler alert: Don’t watch if you want to keep the scenery a total surprise. If you do watch, don’t worry: it’s even more impressive in real life!
  • You will want to leave straight away.

Is the trail difficult?

It’s supposed to be the easiest of all the Alta Vias, but that does not mean it’s a walk in the park. Most of the trail is easy to walk, without Via Ferratas, glacier crossings nor climbing required. You do require a reasonable fitness level though. The best advice for mountain hikes is ‘Slow, but steady’. Keep your pace a bit lower than you can handle, but keep it constant, and you will manage fine! This is especially important when going up. You don’t want to stop to catch breath every few steps.

Most huts are well equipped, meaning you can recharge your batteries at night with a shower and a good à la carte meal. Although it’s still a mountain experience that can feel basic at times, the level of comfort was definitely higher than on other multi-day hikes we took.

The best advice for mountain hikes is ‘Slow, but steady’

Alta Via Dolomites

How many hiking days do I need?

We did not have time to do the full 120 km trail, typically done in 8 to 10 days, as we chose not to fill our entire holiday with the trail. We chose to walk 6 days covering about 75 km. Check our day-to-day planning below that can help you design your own Ata Via 1 itinerary.

With this planning you can experience this adventure of a lifetime, while needing only 6 days off at work. Pretty sure it will feel like you have been away for weeks.

Where do I sleep?

Camping is prohibited so you will sleep in ‘refugios’, or mountain huts. It’s recommended to book ahead (see below). I did my homework to make sure we cover the most beautiful part of the trail, and planned our stages with overnights in the refuges with the most beautiful setting. I’m looking at you Rifugio Lagazuoi and Rifugio Nuvolau!

Apart from the stunning setting, there are 2 good reasons to plan an overnight stay here:

  • The Dolomites are a popular destination and both Rifugio Lagazuoi and Rifugio Nuvolau can be reached on a day hike. There is even a cable car going straight from the valley to Rifugio Lagazuoi. If you arrive in the rifugio late-afternoon, most day hikers will have left already. Beautiful scenery without the crowds: check!
  • The weather in the mountains is always unpredictable. It’s a real bummer when the best view of the itinerary is covered in fog or clouds, and you can’t see a thing. By having an overnight in these stunning places, you have at least two shots to success. If you are blessed with perfect weather, you will be able to enjoy both sunset and sunrise, magical!  

Most of the mountain huts on the Alta Via 1 offer both dorm rooms and private rooms. We were traveling with a friend, and on a budget, so we choose dorm rooms. I found them not too bad. You had a proper ‘single’ bunk bed, and not some kind of shared large mattress that sleeps 12 like you sometimes find in climbers huts.

Day-to-day itinerary for Alta Via 1

Here’s our day-to-day-planning, including getting there and away from Belgium:

Day to day itinerary Alta Via 1

General guidelines

  • Trekking season: Most huts do not open before mid June and close mid to end September. We hiked the trail mid June and loved it as it was not crowded at all. However, be warned that in some years you can still encounter snow on the trail in June.
  • Be flexible when planning. Rifugio Lagazuoi was fully booked on the night of my initial planning. We moved the entire itinerary one day forward, as I really wanted to sleep in this refuge.
  • It’s advisable to book at least 6 months in advance, especially for July & August. We booked at the start of May for Mid June, but as stated above, we had to puzzle around availabilities.
  • Pack light. You don’t need a new pair of clothes for each day. Wash on the go. Check my packing list here.
  • Don’t overestimate how many kilometers you can hike in a day. In the mountains you don’t reach 4-5km per hour, but rather 2km per hour. Check hiking times rather than kilometers, and make sure every day is manageable.

Alternative refuges

Here’s a list of all the huts along our itinerary, that could serve as an alternative. You will also find walking distances and walking times from Lago di Braies in this table.

Refuges Alta Via 1 Dolomites

How much does it cost?

Each person travels differently but here are some guidelines (2020 season):

  • Room rates in dormitories vary between 20€ and 60€ per person per night, including breakfast.
  • Cost per meal in a rifugio: 8-25€ without drinks

During the 6 day hike we spend about 600€ per person for accommodation in dorm rooms, meals, drinks & transfers (Time of travel: June 2018). We had a simple lunch & dined à la carte, with some beers or wine.

I would like to read more!

Useful resources:

I designed our Alta Via 1 itinerary with the help of the go-to book from Cicerone and inspiration on website of fellow bloggers.

Useful links:

  • Taxi Cortina: Here you can book your transfer to get back to your starting point if you don’t want to end your trip with some bus rides.
  • Bus timetable: To find out about the actual time schedules for the buses between Cortina d’Ampezzo and Lago di Braies, with a stop in Dobbiaco (only Italian & German – Google Translate is your friend!).

I hope this practical info was useful to you, but most of all I hope it inspired you to go out there. Keep exploring!

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